Guide to Leon, Spain

Travel guides to Spain	Guide to Leon
What to see and do in the Spanish province of Leon

León is the most northern province of of the region Castilla y León and geographically is one of the most diverse provinces in the whole of Spain with high mountains - covered in snow in Winter - steep cliffs and valleys sheltering lakes and gorges on the one hand, and flat plains watered by Leon's many rivers and streams providing herds with pastures and farmers with land to plant cereal crops on the other. Towards the north-east nearing the border with Galicia, the province of León is characterized by rolling countryside, round mountains covered in forests and picturesque villages.

The climate: León has a Mediterranean climate with continental influences in some areas and atlantic in others. Winters are usually very cold and snowfall common, especially in the mountains where there are some ski slopes, although no resorts. Summers are mild and relatively short.

Fiestas in Leon: The capital city León celebrates the Fiestas of San Juan in June (21st - 30th) with processions and bullfights organised during the day and open-air music concerts, bonfires, fireworks and partying at night. The Easter Week processions in León are famous, especially the Good Friday march through the historical center of the city.

Sites to visit in the City of Leon

Hostal San Marcos - Parador de León: One of the jewels of the city of Leon. This magnificent building was originally a hostal built to shelter the pilgrims on the Santiago Way. In the 15th century it was converted into a monastery, in the 17th century it was used as a prison and during the Spanish Civil War served as an army barracks. Today it is one of Spain's most impressive hotels. Part of the building is the Archeological Museum of Leon, well worth a visit.
León Cathedral: In the Plaza Regla. Spectacular gothic cathedral built in the 12th century with two tall towers covered with beautiful sculptures. Wonderful tall stained glass windows the cathedral is as impressive at night when it is illuminated, as by day. The musuem inside the cathedral has an interesting collection of paintings and sculptures.
Casa de Botines: Designed in the 19th Century by the famous Gaudí, the corner towers make this building look like a fairy story castle.
Basílica de San Isidoro: Romanic church in San Isidoro Plaza witha beautiful façade and an 11th-century baptism font. It has an interesting museum and pantheon of St. Isidoro with sculptures, works of art, medieval textiles and the magnificent Royal Pantheon where a total of 23 kings and queens of Leon, 12 princes and princesses and nine counts were buried and whose tall arches are covered in beautiful paintings.
MUSAC: Impressive modern art gallery with exhibitions of well-known Spanish and international artists. Each year the museum hosts FIMA, an international music festival.
Fundación Vela Zanetti: This 12th century mansion houses the collection of works of the internationally renowned artist Vela Zanetti who, although he was born in Burgos, lived for most of his life in Leon.
Palacio de los Guzmanes: Luxurious 16th century building with beautiful indoor patio, this building serves as headquarters to the provincial parliament.

Where to stay in Leon: Visitors to Leon who can afford to give themselves a treat should definitely stay at the Parador in Leon, Hostal San Marcos.

A wonderful hotel and one of the best paradores in Spain. Look out for special offers and treat yourself to an unforgettable break in what is more like a museum than a hotel.

For other possibilities, see Hotels in Leon or search in the box on the right.

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What to eat in Leon: The geographical diversity of the province of León is reflected in the gastronomy too. Roast meats, stews - notably the cocidos maragatos -, roasted red peppers, black sausage, potatoes, chorizos and trout are all specialities of this area of Castilla Leon. The Bierzo area of Leon (near the border with Galicia) produces some excellent wines and liquors. Astorga is famous for its sponge cakes - mantecadas - and Cacabelos for its cherries in orujo (similar to schnapps) and herb liquors. Cold meats and cheeses are also produced locally.

Recommended Restaurants in the city of Leon: Vivaldi, considered to be Leon's best restaurant, innovative cuisine using traditional products; Alfonso V, a more traditional option with classical local dishes and some modern options, the restaurant belongs to the hotel of the same name; Cocinandos, unique restaurant run by two young creative chefs who serve a set menu which is changed weekly; Bodega Regia, very popular with the locals, this restaurant offers mostly simple dishes using very high quality local produce and an excellent price:quality ratio.

Tapas in Leon: Around the Plaza de San Martín there are several pedestrian streets with some excellent tapas bars, very popular with locals especially at weekends. The best ones (all within walking distance from the Plaza) are El Tizón (Cisneros, 3) - excellent meat and sausage tapas; Celso II (Zapaterías, 17) which specialises in Spanish omelettes; La Taberna (La Rúa, 19) specialising in seafood and shellfish; El Llar in the Plaza itself, with a wide variety of typical Leonese tapas.

Recommended restaurants in the Province of Leon: Casa Maruja in Castrillo de los Polvazares, just 5 km. from Astorga, this small restaurant is one of the best places to try an authentic cocido maragato, a seeminly never-ending cocido stew with several different types of meats and sausages, vegetables, chick peas and stock, eaten in that order; El Capricho in Villafranca del Bierzo, serves local dishes aswell as excellent seafood and fresh fish thanks to its proximity to Galicia; Restaurante Serrano in Astorga itself offers delicious modern and traditional dishes at a very reasonable price; Palacio de Canedo in Cacabelos in the Bierzo region of Leon, this restaurant is an excellent option if you want no-fuss, good quality food, much of it home grown and produced in the farm and vineyard owned by the restaurant's well-known owner, Prada A Tope, whose vegetable and fruit conserves, liquors and other products are sold all over Spain; Restaurante Azul Montearenas in San Miguel de las Dueñas near Ponferrada serves delicious traditional dishes using top quality fresh produce and is excellent value for money.

Places of interest to visit in the Province of Leon:

Astorga: Just 48km. from Leon, this is the second largest town in the province with a great historical and monumental heritage. Astorga rose to great importance durante Roman occupation, and conserved its influence during the Middle Ages thanks to the fact that the Camino Francés - the French route of the Santiago Way - and the Route of Silver (Vía de la Plata) converged in Astorga. Today the town is considered to be the capital of the Maragatos area of Leon, and is particularly famous for its Cocido de Maragato - a very rich meat and vegetable stew - and the pastries and cakes produced by its bakeries. Astorga's local fiestas are held during the last week of August and are lively events. Every three years the town organises Expoastorga in June and local companies, services and cultural groups tak part.

Visitors to Astorga should make time to visit the following historical sights:

Restaurants in Astorga: Casa Maragata I and II, excellent choice for visitors brave enough (and hungry enough) to try the famous cocido maragato; La Peseta, popular restaurant serving very good quality traditional dishes and excellent deserts; Serrano, considered by many to be the best restaurant in Astorga as it offers a mixture of traditional and modern cuisine.

Villafranca del Bierzo: This is one of our favourite places in the whole of Spain. A wonderful sleepy village on the Santiago Way surrounded by spectacular countryside on the border between the provinces of Leon and A Coruña. It has a parador (see Villafranca del Bierzo parador) and is an ideal place to stop off during a long drive up to northwest Spain. The village organises a popular Trade and Folklore Fair from 13th - 15th August. Despite its small size - under 4000 inhabitants -Villafranca del Bierzo has several churches and monuments worth visiting during a stroll around the village, including the Villafranca Castle-Palace (see photo above), the 16th century Colegiata de Santa Maria, the convents de la Anunciada (1606) and de San Francisco (13th century) and the Romanic Santiago Church (also 13th century).
Cacabelos: This small village with under 5000 inhabitants was founded by the Romans who called it Bergidum Flavium, and rebuilt by Archbishop Diego Gelmírez en the 12th century. Set in beautiful surroundings next to the River Cúa, like many other small villages in this region, it has received many visitors and pilgrims during the centuries thanks to its location on the Way to Santiago. Of special interest, the Roman Remains of Castro Ventosa in nearby Pieros just 2 km. away. The Carracedo Monastry is also worth a visit as is Prada a Tope, an interesting restaurant/farm shop selling homemade wines, liquors and famous for its bottled red peppers.
Castrillo de los Polzávares: Beautiful tiny village with just 80 inhabitants, pebbled streets and the traditional houses of centuries gone by. Many say this is the best place to try a cocido maragato and we have some friends who travel each year from Alicante to Asturias and always break their journey at a lovely rural hotel in Castrillo called Hostería Cuca la Vaína (http://www.cucalavaina.com) which they say offers outstanding value for money.
Mansilla de las Mulas: Founded in 70 A.D. this attractive village lived its hey-day during the Middle Ages and is yet another example of how the Santiago Way bought wealth and splendour to places lining the route. Remains of the 12th century wall which surrounded Mansilla are still standing today, and guided tours around the village are free during the Summer months. The village has some interesting churches and the monastries of Gradefes and Villaverde Sandoval are nearby. The village also has an excellent restaurant called El Hórreo with traditional dishes using excellent local fresh produce.
Ponferrada: This medium-sized town (65,000 inhabitants) is the capital of the Bierzo region of Leon. Called Ponferrada because of the bridge build in the 11th century under the orders of the Bishop of Astorga to facilitate the route for Santiago Way pilgrims. The rivers Sil and Boeza meet here, and the town provides its local agricultural and mining sectors with a bustling trading centre. Monuments and sights worth seeing in Ponferrada include:
Sahagún: This small town is located on the banks of the River Cea and is linked to the Monastary of San Benito and is a landmark on the last part of the Codex Calistinus route of the Santiago Way. As most other villages and towns on the route of the Santiago pilgrimage, the town has plenty of churches and monasteries.
Sena de Luna: Beautiful small village located in the Luna area of Leon, surrounded by enormous lime rocks and lots of streams. Perfect for a weekend break if you enjoy hiking, with lots of routes and paths leading to wonderfully unspoilt rural spots. There is a spa hotel just 18 km. away offering specialised treatments at reasonable prices.