Change of plan – Galicia next post, not this one. We have been staying in one of the fascinating villages that hug the Oiartzun esturary close to San Sebastian. Though ship-building is over, the village is still part of a busy port and much of the distinctive life of the community remains centered around the sea. Our host invited us to eat with him and his partner in the Society of which he is a member. This strongly male enclave with its splendid kitchen ( in which women are not allowed) had a plentiful supply cooking oils and wines, including the typical txakoli wine of the region. As we walked along the narrow road to the rooms where the Society meets, we could hear traditional Basque music from the local cafes. We ate a fine merluza (hake) which we had bought in the market earlier in the day. The Basque country has the reputation of being the finest place to eat in Spain as we discovered.

This Society was founded over fifty years ago and we were told that meals often end with the singing of local fishermen’s songs – beginning quietly as the tales of the sea are told but ending in full volume with enthusiastic thumping of tables.

Our host translated words from one such song. ‘Being quiet in the harbour, being quiet in the harbour, there is a beautiful white boat on the water, protected by the north star in the sky…’ There are four verses which follow the fortunes of the fish and end with the wealth they have brought the fishermen and the bibulous pleasure with which they have celebrated them!

We learned that the venue of this particular Society is under threat. But for as long as it continues to meet, this mixture of good food, wine and song will surely be the mark of its companionship.

B.R.